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Tips and Tricks: Engine
  • 70-78 Ford small-block V8 single belt serpentine conversion
    This conversion works for people looking at removing their power steering setup and air conditioning, leaving only the alternator & water pump as driven accessories. Trust me: the 302 Mustang II doesn't need power steering! You may be able to drive the power steering pump with this system, as the crank pulley does have a v-belt groove behind the serpentine grooves, but I haven't done it. Please contact me if you get power steering to work with this setup!

    In post-79 302 Mustangs, the belt system had been converted to serpentine and the water pump spin direction reversed. This change (I thought) forced anyone wanting to convert to serpentine on their early-model 302 to replace the water pump. Lo and behold the 302's in some non-Mustang cars do NOT have a reverse-spin pump, yet DO have serpentine systems. Here's the specs on parts I used from a mid-eighties Ford wagon:

    • Water pump pulley: D9AE-85C9-C7A (discontinued)
    • Crank pulley: D9AE-6312-07B (discontinued)
    • Alternator pulley: Any 6-groove Ford alternator pulley
    • Extra spacers: Alternator needs to be spaced out from the engine 3/8" to 1/2". Use washers or cut up the long bottom-side alternator bracket spacer from another engine. You may need to use longer alternator bracket and water pump bolts.
    • 40" to 42" serpentine belt will work. You may not be able to find a 6 groove belt in such a short length, 5 groove works fine.
    • Use 5-groove belt to make up slight difference in pulley alignment if needed: Run the belt on the inside grooves of the water pump & crank pulleys and on the outside grooves of the alternator pulley.

    Also, March Performance carries a billet aluminum serpentine conversion kit for your MII available through Summit Racing. Ask them to order part number 1675 from March Performance. This kit includes the crank, water pump and alternator pulley with cover.

  • K&N air filter
    A K&N air filter on any automobile is going to increase horsepower. Adding one to your Mustang II is simple! Here's the stock replacement part #'s you'll need:
    • V8: E-1550 for 1975 and 1976, E-1180 for 1977 and 1978
    • V6: E-1350 for 1974 to 1976, E-1280 for 1977 and 1978
    • I4: E-1200 for 1974 to 1978

  • How to change the starter on a V8 Mustang II
    • Put the front tires up on ramps.
    • Disconnect the battery.
    • Use a floor jack with a board on it to raise the engine a little.
    • Remove the two vertical bolts that attach the engine mount to the block.
    • Remove the bolt that holds the mount to the frame bracket, requires a socket and wrench.
    • Remove the two lower bracket to frame bolts, socket and wrench again.
    • Remove the two upper bracket to frame bolts that go through the frame. Takes two people or one with monkey arms!
    • Jack up the engine a little more and slide the mount and bracket forward and out of the car.
    • Get under the car behind the front wheels and remove the small crossmember under the bellhousing. Four bolts. A good set of different shape ratchets and wrenches really helps!
    • Remove the lower starter bolt.
    • Back to the front. Use a 3/8" ratchet and looong extension to get the top starter bolt. This is the only way you can get it.
    • Slide the starter forward over the crossmember and remove the wires while its sitting on the crossmember.
    • Get it the rest of the way outta there!
    • Reverse procedure to install!
    Most new starters will drive the bendix in too far, which can have you doing this all over in as little as two weeks! There are thin spacer plates available to go between the starter and bellhousing that cure the problem.
    Tip provided by Gregg Eshelman Sun Aug 3 22:50:06 1997

  • The "invisible" V6 Oil Filter
    You really have to watch the "Qwikie Lube" places if you have a MII with a V6. The ONLY way to remove the oil filter is to remove the battery first. Then you can get to the filter. You can't get it from below. T-Tops are extra nasty. On the '76 ones, the right side brace bar is STRAIGHT, and has to be yanked to pull the battery. In '77, they used a BENT bar.

    Tip provided by Gregg Eshelman

  • Is your V8 302 radiator rotted? Here's a replacement!
    Grab the radiator from a 1968 Ford pickup and you'll have an exact replacement for your V8 302 II. The filler is in the hose, by the way. Some II's had a filler in the radiator (late 77 and 78). Either will work, you'll just have to switch hoses.

Dan Polk
Last Updated: 12/30/98

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