Bittersweet: 500 E. Alameda Ave., 303-942-0320, bittersweetdenver.com
The look: You’ll have to look hard to see what this elegant, cozy building used to be: a gas station. Inside, soft lighting with cherry and marble accents, two small dining rooms and an inviting bar.
On the menu: Ambitious and carefully executed dishes, layered with rich and sometimes ribald American flavors. A “New England chowder” is a delicate pile of pork, potato and clam surrounded by a brassy seafood puree. A frisee salad is wrapped with delicate cured salmon and topped with a soft poached egg. Lamb cannelloni is a dramatic coupling of braised lamb wrapped in sheets of pasta with soft ricotta. A breast of duck perches next to lightly crisped sweet-potato spaetzle, then dotted with a tangy-sweet cherry sauce. The menu will change with the season but also with the whims of daring chef Olav Peterson. Not cheap: Entrees are mostly in the mid-$20s.
The vibe: Refined but friendly service sets a relaxed tone. A smart destination for date night.
When to visit: Bittersweet is open Tuesday-Saturday for supper. Come early in the week for a quieter meal, or visit on the weekend for a more populated affair. Whenever you choose, get a reservation just in case. Tucker Shaw
